I received the following message via chat from a follower, that I would like to share here:
Hi, 小紫, do you know that Dior appropriates the modernized mamianqun designed by some hanfu brands in china? link of discussion about Dior 2022 A/W show on weibo: https://weibo.com/6323095999/LChcJyPTa?refer_flag=1001030103_&type=repost#_rnd1657858224778 , I think Dior indeed directly referenced the structure of how it’s pleated and inner cutouts of mamianqun which has a long history dated back to ming dynasty and influenced the shape of qing dynasty skirts as well, it is sussy, look how the DIOR model turned around when the skirt spread to reveal the split style, this is indeed the unique inner structure of mamianqun, a more rigorous examination requires DIOR to show the flat design, but Dior is not responding, it claims on the official website that this is their exclusive style launched this year, yet the same style of mamianqun has been prevalent among young people in China for several years, there are several taobao stores making exactly this kind of modernized mamianqun since 2018 or even early (metal leather buckle belt + fabric suitable for autumn and winter + long skirts), such as 四时景, 你好美荔, etc., I don’t know how to make it an anonymous ask for you to post my question but I would like to listen to your and other followers’ comments on this, thank you 小紫(also feel totally free not to post this one, it’s your blog and you make the call ❤️
Here is a screenshot of Dior’s official shop with the skirt in question:
And here are screenshots of the skirt being displayed on the runway:
Although I am not an expert on tailoring, it does look extremely similar to a Chinese mamianqun/马面裙 (horse-face skirt). Below is an actual modern mamianqun from hanfu brand 你好美荔’s 2018 collection, for comparison:
And here’s a reference sheet on Ming dynasty mamianqun history & construction:
Below is a summary of key points of Chinese netizens’ comments on Weibo:
Based on tailoring and construction, Dior took direct reference from mamianqun for this skirt
However, this is not necessarily “wrong” in and of itself. After all, fashion brands take inspiration from different cultures all the time
What IS wrong, and what is leading to the backlash from Chinese netizens, is that Dior is claiming that the skirt uses an “iconic Dior silhouette” (标志性的Dior廓形) and is a “completely new…fashion item” (全新的优雅时尚单品). See below for screenshot of the item description on their shop, using these exact words:
Personally, I agree with all of the above points. The act of a Western fashion house such as Dior taking inspiration from (or directly using) sartorial styles from other cultures is not new. It is also, in my opinion, not necessarily wrong - as long as due credit is given to the culture(s) that served as a reference for the styles.
I do not believe that a historic fashion house like Dior is unaware of the existence of mamianqun. After all, even Princess Diana wore a Qing dynasty-style mamianqun before, in 1981 (x):
Claiming that the style is totally original and unique to Dior, even an “iconic silhouette” of the brand, is disingenuous in the extreme and deserves to be called out.
I am interested in hearing what my followers think about this. Especially tagging @fouryearsofshades and @audreydoeskaren who are knowledgeable about mamianqun construction and history. What do you all think?
When I was a child, from the time I was about four and could understand things, my mom told me and my brother that we should have a secret word. That way, if we were ever in trouble or felt unsafe and we didn’t want the people around us to know we needed her to come get us, we could let her know. So she let us pick the word and my brother and I chose the phrase “peanut butter cups.” (I’m happy to share the phrase now since both my brother and I are adults now).
I used the phrase twice in my life. Once, I was at a friends house when I eight years old. Her dad got really drunk and was throwing things against the wall. I was really scared and I didn’t want to draw attention to myself on the phone when I called my mom to come get me because I didn’t know if he would get more violent if I asked her to come get me. So I called her and was calm and after a couple minutes I asked “Hey mommy, did you get me those peanut butter cups from the store?” And she said “I’ll be right there.” And she came and got me within minutes.
Second, I was a teenager spending the night at a friends house. Her brother and dad were drinking and they started talking about things that made me uncomfortable - ie: what they liked to do to women. My friend didn’t seem perturbed and said that was normal for them and that I shouldn’t worry. But I was worried because they were really drunk and I was 15 and the only ‘woman’ around that wasn’t related to them. I went in my friends room, told her I needed to call my mom and say goodnight. Before I hung up with her I asked “Next time we go to the store, can we get some peanut butters cups? I’ve been craving them.” And she came and got me, just like that.
Two incidents, one as a young child, one years later as a teen. Don’t discredit this stuff, it fucking works. My brother used it a few times too. Let your child pick the word and no never, ever, ever, ever get mad at them for using it no matter what it is.
DO NOT SCROLL PAST THAT.
Off topic, but very important! I was taught to yell “this is not my mom/dad.” A young kid freaking out in public is likely to be ignored out of embarrassment, but a kid telling you right out that they don’t know who is messing with them? That will turn heads.
Reblog this.💯🗣💋
rEBlOg nOw
I feel like this should be said too if you see a child yelling things like “this isn’t my mum, or I don’t know you” or something don’t ignore them! This system relies on people actually helping the child! It dosent matter how rude you’ll seem or how anxious you are you could be saving a child’s life!
Even if you just ask the child “Do you know this person” if the adult butt’s in make sure to ASK THE CHILD! Even a shy kid will tell you they don’t know this person or just met them or something!
DON’T IGNORE THE SIGNS!
ALWAYS REBLOG
me and my mom were getting followed by a shady guy one time when we were at shopping at ross and then the guy kept following us until we went into michaels. that scared the living fuck out of me.
REBLOG THIS NOW SHARE IT AROUND
If your ever being followed, go up to somebody who looks nice and pretend to know them. They’ll most likely know what’s going on. If they don’t, say you want to show them a picture of a pet (even if you don’t have one, do this.) and go to your notes or an app where you can write and type that you are in danger.
Okay, I’m posting something really out of character today. Episode 32 of Hikaru no Go (the live action) is out today, and Sai disappeared. I didn’t think I would cry (at least not this hard), but I did.
Could you do a breakdown of the introverted abs extroverted versions of each sign?
:
(disclaimer: not all of this should be taken seriously)
ARIES
extrovert // talkative, always smiling, partyhopping every night, dresses colorfully, COMPETITIVE, kinda mean but hides it well, probably calls themselves a foodie unironically
introvert // only talks to their immediate family, hates people but is always nice to them, cat lover, two-faced, still wants to be popular
TAURUS
extrovert // can talk to anyone, spends all their money on gourmet shit they don’t need, hugs every animal, has too many friends, highkey forgetful
introvert // passive, LAZY, stays in bed 23/6, thinks movie buff is a personality trait, huge music nerd, really caring and kind tbh, imagines themselves to be dr. doolittle and attempts to communicate with every animal
GEMINI
extrovert // communicative, DRAMATIC, tons of acquaintances but hates everybody (and the feeling is mutual), only has 3 real friends, bitchy, bad at keeping secrets, loves art, hoeing
introvert // twitter god, talented but only in strange and kind of useless ways, gets bored really quickly, wants to go home but when they get home just wants to go out, tries to stay healthy but loves their vices, anxious, thinks hella fast
CANCER
extrovert // a spammer irl and on social media, thinks they’re the most interesting person in any room, fundamentally nice but with a shit temper, doesn’t get sick often, gives great advice
introvert // intelligent but can’t focus, has like two (2) friends, loves and hates their mom equally, has hidden talents no one knows about, a good cook
LEO
extrovert // has a total breakdown if they aren’t the center of attention, fast learners but always have one subject they just aren’t good at, overenthusiastic, bossy, loves people but manipulates them, likes to read
introvert // 2 pure 4 this world, loves helping people, SUPPORTIVE, socially anxious but too proud to show it, hides everything from their parents, makes everyone watch their favorite tv shows
VIRGO
extrovert // communicative, organized, a great leader, intelligent af, invented the poker face, ambitious but not power-hungry, achieves things the hard way
introvert // CHAOTIC, thinks everyone hates them, no idea how to communicate properly, intelligent, never takes anyone’s advice
LIBRA
extrovert // always communicating (even when they don’t know what they’re talking about), super sweet, emotional, bad at staying organized, has the best eyebrows, APPEALING, secretly kinky
introvert // loves books and shopping, cat person, believes in soulmates, absent-minded and daydreams a lot, genuine, kind, cries often, forgiving
SCORPIO
extrovert // loves meeting new people, highkey hedonistic and into debauchery, really hot, low self-esteem, loyal to their friends, disorganized
introvert // would die before letting others know how they feel, inappropriate humor, socially awkward, really smart but don’t use their intelligence for important situations
SAGITTARIUS
extrovert // EMOTIONAL AND EVERYONE KNOWS IT, popular, social media gods, loves leading their group of followers – i mean friends, self-centered, thinks they’re always right
introvert // will fight for what they want, intense, scary when mad, can hurt others without meaning to, can also be easily hurt but will never show it, too proud to admit any weakness
CAPRICORN
extrovert // super funny and interesting, speaks their mind, probably weren’t great in school but are very intelligent, daydreams a lot, dark sense of humor, artistic
introvert // has never said a single word to anyone, just waiting for the End, self-centered, doesn’t want to waste time on unimportant conversation with unimportant people, can be really silly, has niche interests, planning for their success
AQUARIUS
extrovert // always partying, popular, in the “scene”, friends with everyone except the people they hate, arrogant, they are aware of this
introvert // epic poker face, sometimes wonder if they’re even human themselves, likes plants, impatient, freaks out if anyone doesn’t like something they’ve done, super nice to everyone, is definitely on tumblr
PISCES
extrovert // GETS. IT. DONE., sets goals and achieves them, VERY emotional, gets cranky fast when things don’t go their way, everything hurts them because they’re sensitive af, always gets revenge, really bad temper
introvert // sensitive af pt 2 but make it chaotic, has no idea what they’re doing but somehow it always works out, seems fragile but are actually super strong, art is their life, talented, has inside jokes with everybody
